San Lorenzo coi trulli

by Lorenzo Piccoli


I loved everything about Abruzzo, which is Stefania’s second home. Yet, our visit to San Salvo lasted less than 24 hours as the next day we wanted to continue our journey to the south. Stefania and I had planned to spend the second half of our road trip in Puglia. As we got there, we hit on the national parc of Gargano. We camped between Peschici and Vieste for two days, roaming from beach to beach in absolute freedom and with no need for a plan.

We were thinking of spending one more night in the parc, but yesterday we were surprised by a violent thunderstorm. We decided it was time the find a solid roof to get cover. Unfortunately, the first available b&b was about 200km further south in Trani. We slept there and today we welcomed the opportunity to visit the harbour, the castle and the cathedral which, incidentally, is literally and beautifully built on the sea.

Not far from Trani, just a little bit out of the way, lies Castel del Monte, one of the most renowed and enigmatic castles in Italy. Some ten years ago it was the theatre and, I should stress, the main cause of a historical family insurrection against my father and his will to visit the castle. This time there was no discussion: Stefania and I decided to get there and get in. We agreed it was worth doing so.

You will not hear me saying that all thr places around here are beauiful/nice. The area around Foggia is ugly and dangerous. Bari, the region’s capital city, is dirty, unattractive and heavily overcrowded. However, Bari Vecchia remains quite fascinating with people moving, working and relaxing in its little tiny streets as if they were ants.

Since our arrival in Puglia, Stefania and I have driven for about 400km. We are now camping in Alberobello, the world capital – and world heritage – of ‘trulli’. For those who do not know, I would dare to define trulli as the southern Italian version of a hobbit’s house. Tomorrow we will continue our journey to the south.

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